Paris (AFP) – Paris Haute Couture Week has wrapped up after four days of shows that featured the end of an era at Balenciaga, the start of a new one at Maison Margiela, and some surprise appearances and absences. AFP looks back on the key moments of the Autumn-Winter 2025-2026 season:
– **New eras**
Demna bowed out at Balenciaga after a decade in charge with a show on Wednesday that drew the usual smattering of celebrities to the front rows but had some surprise models on the runway. Kim Kardashian channeled Elizabeth Taylor as she walked the room in a sultry slip dress, while veteran French actress Isabelle Huppert appeared in a turtleneck pulled up to her ears. Belgian Glenn Martens debuted at Maison Margiela the same day. Critics praised his bold first steps as a replacement for British design legend John Galliano, who stepped down in January. The New York Times called Martens’ “Artisanal” collection, which included thrifted clothing, a “brilliant no-holds-barred debut,” while Women’s Wear Daily said it “tilted the Paris house in a dark, daring and DIY direction”.
– **Armani’s absence**
One notably absentee was Giorgio Armani, 91, who had already canceled his menswear show in Milan due to health reasons. He also missed the Paris Armani Prive show on doctors’ orders. “In 20 years of Armani Prive, it’s the first time I’m not in Paris,” he said in a statement sent to AFP. “My doctors advised more rest, even though I felt ready.” He added that he had “followed and overseen every aspect of the show remotely,” stressing: “I approved and signed off on everything you will see.”
– **Cardi B’s couture**
New York rapper Cardi B had a busy week in Paris and seemed intent on out-couturing many of the models. She appeared at the opening show of the week on Monday at Schiaparelli in a traffic-stopping tasselled neckpiece and posed with a crow perched on her hand outside the Petit Palais exhibition space. The next day, she turned heads at Stephane Rolland, with a sculptural black headpiece that surrounded her like a religious shroud. On Wednesday she was front row at Balenciaga.
– **The rose trend**
Floral patterns were everywhere, with the rose especially dominant. Giambattista Valli adorned airy gowns with oversized fabric roses, Elie Saab featured them on princess-style dresses, while Armani Prive used pearl-embroidered roses. Balenciaga incorporated rose sequin prints into a skirt suit, and Robert Wun showcased black-and-white roses on a structured strapless crinoline dress.
– **Best of the rest**
Syrian designer Rami Al Ali made history as the first couturier from his country to take part in the official Paris calendar, choking back tears at the end of his show of exquisitely tailored pieces. Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf delivered a typically playful and sculptural spectacle, while Hong Kong’s Robert Wun burnished his reputation further with some striking looks inspired by cinema and theatre.
© 2024 AFP
