Paris (AFP) – After 10 years at Balenciaga, provocative Georgian showman Demna is to take a final bow during Paris Haute Couture Week, which began on Monday with a star-studded show by Schiaparelli. Demna, known for his daring work as well as controversies during his decade-long stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga, will unveil his final collection on Wednesday in what is expected to be one of the highlights of the week.
The 44-year-old, acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX, has been tasked with reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci by Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault. Another of his biggest fans, rapper Cardi B, turned up at Schiaparelli on Monday in a traffic-stopping tassled neckpiece and posed with a crow in the drizzle in front of the Petit Palais exhibition space. She took her seat on the front row alongside singer Dua Lipa, who wore a full-length petalled white outfit with daring cutaways.
The Schiaparelli collection featured an impressive black-and-white ruffled gown, long sculptural evening dresses, and refined tailored suits in a palette dominated by white, black, and silver, with accents of bright red. Haute Couture Week is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations made to wear at red carpets, galas, and other high-profile events. Schiaparelli was followed by a show by Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, who said her creations were inspired by the ocean and British documentary maker David Attenborough’s heart-rending new film on sealife. Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Rahul Mishra, Julie de Libran, and Giambattista Valli were set to follow later in the day.
American Michael Rider, who succeeded Hedi Slimane as chief designer at Celine, unveiled his first collection for the luxury French brand on Sunday, outside the official calendar.
After Demna’s farewell on Wednesday, Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight when he unveils his first collection for Maison Margiela, following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano. On Tuesday, Chanel will present the final collection created by its in-house design studio, the fifth since Virginie Viard’s sudden departure in June 2024.
Her successor, the discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy, was appointed in December and will showcase his first collection for Chanel in October. In total, 27 houses will unveil their creations, including Elie Saab, Armani Prive, Aelis, Viktor & Rolf, Adeline Andre, and Dubai-based Rami Al Ali, who is set to become the first Syrian to join the official Paris calendar.
Following a spate of major changes at fashion houses, some absences will stand out, particularly Dior’s. After a highly anticipated debut during the men’s Fashion Week on June 27, newly appointed artistic director Jonathan Anderson is holding back his first haute couture collection for January 2026. Named in early June to lead Dior’s women’s and couture lines as well, the 40-year-old Northern Irishman has become the first person since founder Christian Dior himself to oversee all three branches of the house.
Jean Paul Gaultier is also missing. Dutch designer Duran Lantink, appointed as the brand’s permanent artistic director in April, will make his debut during Women’s Fashion Week in October. Since stepping back in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier has handed over the reins of his couture collections to a series of guest designers, including Olivier Rousteing, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Haider Ackermann, and Simone Rocha. The week will wrap up with a show by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier.
© 2024 AFP
