Rome (AFP) – Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was named Tuesday as the new chief creative officer at Rome-based luxury brand Fendi, just months after stepping down as womenswear designer at Dior. The 61-year-old takes over from Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of the Fendi founders, who has been interim director of women’s collections since English designer Kim Jones left in October 2024. Chiuri, who spent nearly a decade at the helm at Dior, will present her first collection for Fendi in Milan in February.
“Maria Grazia Chiuri is one of the greatest creative talents in fashion today,” said Bernard Arnault, the multi-billionaire chief executive of fashion giant LVMH, which owns Fendi and Dior. “Surrounded by the Fendi teams and in a city that is dear to her heart, I am convinced that Maria Grazia will contribute to the artistic renewal and future success of the house while perpetuating her unique legacy,” he added. The change is part of a huge shakeup of the European luxury clothing industry that has seen Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Versace unveil new leadership. Brands are hoping the renewal will help boost flagging sales caused by a slowdown in China, US tariffs, and a widespread sense of economic uncertainty.
Chiuri arrives on the back of a highly successful stint at Dior where she was the house’s first female artistic chief. One of the most high-profile women in a still male-dominated industry, she established herself at Valentino and began her career at Fendi in 1989. In the Fendi statement on Tuesday, she said she returned to the brand “with honour and joy.” “Fendi has always been a breeding ground for talent and a starting point for many creatives in the industry,” she said. “I am grateful to Mr Arnault for entrusting me with this mission to contribute to writing a new chapter in the history of this extraordinary company founded by women.”
Fendi, best known for its leather bags and accessories, was founded in Rome in 1925 by Adele Casagrande and Edoardo Fendi. Their legacy was continued by their five daughters — Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda — who turned Fendi into a powerhouse luxury brand. Its modern history was also shaped by designer Karl Lagerfeld, who was creative director from 1965 to 2019. Silvia Venturini Fendi, Anna’s daughter, worked alongside Lagerfeld as creative director from 1992 and oversaw the accessories and men’s lines before taking over from Jones. In September, Fendi announced that she would become its honorary president, and she presented her final collection at Milan Fashion Week last month.
HSBC bank analysts have estimated Fendi to have been the fourth-biggest fashion brand last year in the LVMH portfolio — behind Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Celine — with sales of 2.33 billion euros ($2.69 billion). LVMH does not break down sales by brand.
© 2024 AFP
