Paris (AFP) – French luxury company Hermes on Tuesday announced that a British designer, Grace Wales Bonner, is taking over its men’s pret-a-porter collection from a predecessor who held the position for nearly four decades. Wales Bonner, aged in her mid-30s and a graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins art school, said in a Hermes statement she was overjoyed to be joining “such a magical house” and called it “a dream”. Her first collection is due to hit the catwalk in January 2027.
Wales Bonner takes over from French designer Veronique Nichanian, 71, who led the label’s menswear line for the past 37 years. Hermes on Friday announced Nichanian’s departure, after she presents her last men’s collection in January, for the 2026-2027 Autumn-Winter shows in Paris. The new blood at Hermes is just the latest in a series of artistic changes at the big fashion houses, notably at Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Jean Paul Gaultier.
The luxury sector is currently going through a challenging period for sales globally that is impacting many companies, but Hermes has been well-protected from the buffeting. Its sales have continued to increase, and its turnover grew more than seven percent in the first half of this year, to eight billion euros ($9.3 billion).
Wales Bonner, the daughter of an English mother and a Jamaican father, has picked up a string of awards for her innovative approach to menswear, blending European tailoring and African influences. In the past, and under her own label, she has explored themes of identity and post-colonial heritage. In a 2019 interview with The Guardian, Wales Bonner said, “I wasn’t sure if I wanted to be a historian or an artist.”
Hermes’s artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas welcomed her, saying “her contemporary view of the world, of crafting and of culture, will continue to guide the men’s pret-a-porter collection.”
© 2024 AFP
