**Paris (France) (AFP)** – The French parliament on Monday passed a bill aimed at curbing the rise of fast fashion, targeting major Asian e-commerce platforms such as Shein and Temu. The legislation, first tabled two-and-a-half years ago, seeks to regulate so-called “ultra-fast fashion” companies, known for selling large volumes of lower-quality clothing at rock-bottom prices. Easy to order and replace, fast fashion items contribute to pollution from the textile industry, which accounts for nearly 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.
The Senate passed the bill Monday after the lower house, the National Assembly, did so last week. It imposes a per-item fee for producing textiles en masse that will increase over time, and it includes a ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands, including by social media influencers. Lawmakers hope to rein in Asian e-commerce companies that have exploded in popularity in France in recent years. Trade Minister Serge Papin last week stated that the bill would target the main players, including three companies that he said are driving the surge in ultra-fast fashion. “Their names, which were still unknown three years ago…are now on everyone’s lips in France: Temu, Shein, and AliExpress,” he noted at the time.
However, some have criticized the legislation for sparing European and French companies such as Zara and Kiabi. Some leftist lawmakers in both chambers abstained during the vote. Green Party lawmaker Charles Fournier expressed concerns last week that the original bill had been “considerably scaled back,” arguing that brands such as Zara and H&M “have not become models of sustainable fashion.” The coalition named Stop Fast Fashion also criticized what it called a “greatly watered-down” version compared to the one originally proposed.
Anne-Cecile Violland, the centre-right member of parliament who proposed the bill, stated that they needed legislation that could be passed “very quickly and be operational.” “We’re coming down very hard on Shein, and that’s the first step,” she told AFP, acknowledging the disappointment expressed by some. The legislation targets ultra-fast fashion based on two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each brand scores on both these standards. The levy could reach up to 20 euros ($23) per item by 2030, though the cap remains at 50 percent of the product’s pre-tax price. Part of these penalties will go towards collection and recycling infrastructure.
Additionally, the legislation requires ultra-fast fashion companies to display messages on their websites promoting more moderate consumption, including reusing and repairing clothing. A ban on advertising, including by influencers, is a central plank of the bill; however, questions remain over how it could be enforced. The European Commission has questioned whether the bill’s advertising provisions comply with EU law. The French government has argued that it relies on similar principles that underline regulations on advertisements for alcohol or cigarettes, according to Violland. However, she noted that if the Commission disagrees, France would not be able to enforce the measure.
© 2024 AFP
