Paris (France) (AFP) – Belgian fashion designer Anthony Vaccarello is to leave Saint Laurent after a decade in charge, having overseen a surge in revenues at the French house and a last gold-themed catwalk show that was hailed as one of his best.
“Anthony Vaccarello has played a key role in Saint Laurent’s development, helping to strengthen its identity and influence across the worlds of fashion and culture,” the house’s parent company, French conglomerate Kering, said in a statement. It did not give any reason for the departure, but Kering chief executive Luca de Meo said: “Through his creative vision and exacting standards, he has contributed to strengthening the enduring influence of one of France’s greatest couture houses, as we embark on a new chapter in its history.” The house will announce its new creative leadership soon, according to the statement.
Vaccarello, 44, was reported to be reluctant to leave the position, but he had dropped a heavy hint about the imminent change — and the risk of replacing him — at his final show for the house in Paris on September 29. “What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains,” he wrote enigmatically in a message for guests at the Spring-Summer 2027 show in front of the Eiffel Tower.
He is one of several chief designers said to be in the sights of nervy fashion bosses who are struggling with a downturn in the global luxury business linked to weak demand from China and broad concerns about the world economy. Vaccarello’s departure represents the biggest personnel change at a major Kering brand since former car company boss de Meo took the reins as chief executive of the debt-laden Paris-based company in September last year. It is seen as a risk, with Vaccarello established as a celebrity favourite and widely praised for his last collection, which featured models wearing a variety of almost entirely gold outfits. Some speculated that it was a reference to his Midas touch, or perhaps his “golden age” at the brand.
The New York Times called it “a 24-karat unofficial goodbye,” while the chief buyer of London’s Harrods luxury store, Simon Longland, described it as “a true fashion moment…that will live long in the memory of those of us privileged enough to witness it.”
– ‘Beautiful job’ –
Vaccarello began the difficult task of replacing France’s Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent in 2016, taking several seasons to identify a fresh look for the brand while also respecting its illustrious heritage. The Belgian’s style became associated with more modern fabrics, particularly metallic ones, as well as the introduction of younger streetwear looks to the catwalk, a trend that peaked several years ago and is now in decline.
The group’s revenues tripled over his tenure, reaching $3.2 billion (2.8 billion euros) in 2023, only to slide in recent years after the frenzied post-Covid boom gave way to slower, more selective shopping from luxury buyers. His star shone brightly enough for the group to brand its collections “Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello,” while celebrity fans from Kate Moss, Dua Lipa, Zoe Saldana, and Hailey Bieber gave him cross-generation appeal.
Saint Laurent also established itself as the first couture house to invest in film production over his time, co-producing a number of movies including Jacques Audiard’s hit musical “Emilia Perez.”
“It was like a blink, and at the same time it was intense, it went so fast,” Vaccarello told CNN during an interview to mark his ten years at the brand in May. “It’s such a beautiful job, it’s such a privilege to do that.”
© 2024 AFP
