Paris (France) (AFP) – French luxury group Kering said Friday that British designer Martine Rose would take over at Balenciaga, following the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli after just 18 months on the job. “Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture,” Kering chief executive Luca de Meo said in a statement. De Meo has been shaking up management at the conglomerate’s smaller houses while also seeking to boost sales at its flagship Gucci and Saint Laurent brands. The former Renault chief, who took over last year, is grappling with industry-wide pressure amid weaker demand from China and worries about consumer spending across the global economy.
Rose, 45, created her namesake menswear label in London in 2007, with styles inspired by the rave and hip-hop scenes as well as punk and football. Born to a British-Jamaican family in Croydon, south London, she has staged shows in offbeat venues such as alleys or climbing gyms, which could appeal to the younger clients Balenciaga hopes to attract. Rose also worked as a consultant for Balenciaga’s menswear line from 2015 to 2018 under its star Georgian designer Demna, now at Gucci. “Known for challenging established conventions of fashion and masculinity, her work occupies a singular position between underground culture and the international fashion establishment,” Kering said in its statement.
Rose’s first show is set for February during Paris Fashion Week. De Meo, widely considered a turnaround specialist, has accelerated his management overhauls in a bid to revive sales and a share price that has dropped roughly 40 percent since January. Kering stock was down 2.6 percent in Paris on Friday.
– ‘Radical creativity’ – British Vogue noted after the appointment that Rose counts Rihanna and Timothee Chalamet as fans, and that rap star Kendrick Lamar wore a custom-made jacket for his wildly popular Super Bowl halftime performance last year. Rose said the house created by Spaniard Cristobal Balenciaga in 1919 “has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me.” “I am committed to honouring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story,” she said in the statement.
Her arrival comes a day after the long-rumoured departure of Piccioli, who was hired in May 2025 after spending 25 years at Valentino. No reason was given, but on Instagram the 59-year-old Italian designer said “Couture requires time and attention; it demands conviction and courage.” De Meo said “Balenciaga has always been a House of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion.” “Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision.”
Last month Kering also parted ways with Alexander McQueen’s chief designer Sean McGirr after three years at the helm, the Irishman apparently paying the price for a plunge in sales since the post-Covid boom years and lacklustre reviews. The week before, Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who this week was named International Designer of the Year at the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards in New York, left Saint Laurent after a decade in charge. His departure came even after Saint Laurent’s revenue climbed to over three billion euros ($3.4 billion) in 2022, before experiencing a slowdown like the rest of the fashion sector. Kering again gave no reason and has not yet announced a successor, though speculation has focused on Chemena Kamali, currently artistic director at Chloe.
© 2024 AFP
